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Mugler’s runway shows felt like Instagram- or TikTok-ready experiences well before either of those were a reality. As a former ballet dancer, he knew his way around a theatrical production. Everyone from Traci Lords to Tippi Hedren to Ivana Trump in her “don’t get mad, get everything” era appeared on his runway at some point. James Brown performed at his 20th anniversary show at the Rootin’ tootin’ and hootin’ shirt Also,I will get this Cirque d’Hiver; a pregnant Pat Cleveland was lowered from the ceiling at his fall 1984 extravaganza. Cadwallader cites the spring 1991 “Butterfly” show, featuring and inspired by Diana Ross, as a personal favorite. Mugler was also ahead of his time when it came to emphasizing diversity, whether it came to race, size, or gender expression. “To [cast] women that were very voluptuous, at that time, it was not something that was trendy. It was something that was just natural for him, to show different types of beauty, and different types of bodies. Now people see it, and they recognize it,” Loriot says. He also calls back to the spring 1998 show (“Here’s a full show, with only Black girls, and it’s fantastic, and people didn’t get it”), and to the fact that Mugler was one of the first designers to feature trans models on his catwalks and in his videos. His fashion house, says Cadwallader, “was a place of acceptance, open-mindedness, a place where you could shine, where you could be your best and you knew you were welcome.”

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Mugler’s designs explored his fascination with transhumanism, the Rootin’ tootin’ and hootin’ shirt Also,I will get this belief that humans can evolve beyond their limitations with the help of technology—thus his penchant for showing models morphing into cars or robots. His futuristic approach extended to his views on retrospectives, Loriot says. “[Mugler was] someone who was not nostalgic, and that’s one reason why he always refused to have a show on his work. It was because he wanted it to be, not a nostalgic look to the past, but more something towards the future…His fantasy was that he would create the perfect outfit that everybody on the planet would wear, and everybody would be the same, so that the only thing that would stand out was your personality.”

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